#elitehotseat: LIAM CUSHING

How did you get drawn into filmmaking?

-- I’d always loved film growing up but never considered it as a career path. In my teens I pursued photography as a hobby, as it seemed a natural compliment to my love of film, then in university I studied Cinema Studies but still didn’t consider it a professional option. Things started to change during the period that I was working as an assistant in London after working for Mario Testino. It was at that time that video cameras started to become more accessible. I found my love for film taking over from my photography work and I was gravitating more to film work, eventually getting hired more and more for directing.

Why do you think film as a medium works well to compliment fashion?

-- I think because fashion has always been about visual storytelling at its core, and that’s exactly what film does. Film allows fashion to go further, to expand on visual stories and themes that print is limited by. That being said I still love photography and I am shooting stills more than ever.

Can you describe your style to us?

-- I think of my work as having an overall dreamlike quality to it. Falling between the abstract/ethereal world of the mind and the sheer beauty of the physical world. Imagery can exist on a level beyond the confines of the superficial and into something more human and emotive. I see my work almost feeling like a memory, where the emotions feel real but the visuals are otherworldly.

You’ve assisted high profile photographers, such as Mario Testino, in the past. How did that come about?

-- I was looking for an internship in Toronto but opportunities were limited. So I decided to go big and get in touch with photo agencies who represented my favourite photographers, one being Art Partner. I ended up getting the internship and assisting a lot of photographers on Art Partner’s roster, and working a lot with Mario Testino’s Head of Production and agent, who then introduced me to Mario.

Why do you think there has been an increased interest in fashion film in the last decade?

-- I think it’s a natural evolution, and the inherent ability of film to tell a story makes it so appealing to fashion. I think that people are gradually becoming more attracted to moving images in fashion, as film is becoming more accessible and naturally has the ability to elicit more of a connection than other visual mediums.

How do you find or generate ideas for your films or is it a different process for every project?

-- For commercial work a project usually starts with a brief and then I work closely with the campaign creative director and client to bring the concept to life. For personal projects I often have a of couple ideas that I’m building over time. Waiting until I have the right talent and team together before I start to film.

Fashion designers are notoriously picky when it comes to creative output. When you come up with the idea for a film, do you ever have any conflict with the designer? 

-- It depends on how much creative confidence the client or agency has in me. For the most part it’s been smooth interactions, and for some more difficult ones I just try to roll with it and focus on making the best product I can.

Can you tell us about a current project you’re working on? 

-- I have a short film project that’s been a long time in the works, and working on a fashion film with Ezra Petronio.

Are there any other fashion houses you’d like to work with?

-- I’d love to work with Gucci. The work they’re putting out with Glen Luchford is amazing. Off the top of my head Isabel Marant, Acne, Missoni, Bottega Veneta, Missoni, Miu Miu, and Chloe.

What advice do you have for aspiring filmmakers and photographers?

-- Be true to your own vision, really listen and pay attention to creatives who you respect, and be prepared for a lot of rejection (and I mean a lot!) Other than that it’s a breeze.

#elitehotseat: GRACIE CARROLL

What inspired you to start your blog? 

-- I launched GracieCarroll.com almost 5 years ago after returning home from two years of living abroad in London, UK. When I was moving to London I started my very first blog (London Snog) as an easy way for friends and family to keep up with my adventures across the pond. It was while I was working in PR and at British ELLE that I started to realize just how serious blogging was becoming. When my Visa was ending and I was moving home, I decided to launch the blog that I thought was missing in the market (a stylish website that was user friendly) and the rest is history.

With the increase of bloggers in recent years, how do you distinguish yourself against the others? 

-- I think that consistency and unique, authentic content is really key when it comes to blogging. There are a lot of people that pop up out of nowhere and disappear just as quickly. Blogging is a lot of work, and many people drop off once they realize how much time and effort it takes to produce content on a regular basis. For me, standing out from the crowd is about having a unique style, an authentic voice and content that's interesting and helpful to the reader.

Tell us a bit of the backstory of your blog, what kind of brand are you trying to portray? 

-- I'm not sure that I really thought of myself as a brand back when I started. At the time, I really just looked at the blog as a great way to showcase my writing and styling portfolio that would help as I ventured into the world of freelance back in Toronto. To this day, my brand is still 'me' and I try to stay as true to who I am as possible.

Do you feel your personal style has evolved through the lifespan of your blog? 

-- Yes, definitely! For one thing, when I launched my blog I was 23, single, and had just moved back from London. I think my style was a little more adventurous then, but, I still like to have fun with my clothing and always stay true to pieces that are a signature of my style like a good moto jacket. I think now my style is slightly more 'grown up' in an appropriate way for someone who has gone from their early twenties to late twenties.

What posts do you find generate the most positive response with the online community? 

-- Lately I've come to realize that people respond really well to content I share that highlights my life as a young entrepreneur, or #girlboss as we all like to say! It's really flattering to hear from followers who admire my work ethic and my career; if I can create content that helps inspire them to start their own business, or try something new, that, to me, is the most rewarding thing about what I do.

What's the best part about being your own boss? 

-- By nature, I've never responded well to people telling me what to do. It's probably best for everyone that I work for myself! haha. I love having full control and freedom at the same time.

Where do you find inspiration for your work?

-- Normally I get the most inspired from talking to people. Especially fellow entrepreneurs. I get really excited learning about people's stories, their careers, and what they're working on. It always gets me fired up to create new content and push myself even harder. I would encourage everyone to take time to meet with people face-to-face.

What blogs are you obsessed with? Are there any blogs that have influenced your work? 

-- Refinery29 is essentially my online Bible.

Who is the most interesting person you've gotten to meet through your career? 

-- That's a very tough question to answer! I've been extremely fortunate to have met a lot of incredible people over the years. I loved getting to interview Giles Deacon a few years ago. He is insanely talented and very nice, and funny. 

What are some of your other career highlights?

-- Getting to travel to Mexico, Portugal and Scotland last year to shoot the FLARE x Air Transat 'Style Jaunt' web series was definitely a career highlight. I always love getting to travel for work! Also, sitting on a plane and seeing people reading about you and watching you on TV is pretty surreal. 

What advice would yo give to someone who wants to start a blog or grow their following?
-- Do some research and figure out what will make you unique, and stand out.

Visit The Chic Canuck or you can view Gracie's personal blog here. 

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#elitehotseat: ISTOICA

Who is Istoica? 
-- ISTOICA is our team name, it's the collaboration between Chris Altorf and Jessica Hayes. To us it represents our two perspectives coming together to make something that feels cohesive. 

Can you tell us about yourself and how you got started in video and photography?
-- We really started taking photography seriously when we started our photoblog ISTOICAeveryday. We would shoot our friends around the city or rearrange our apartment to make a studio and then we would post one image each day to the blog. At the same time we were studying Cinema at U of T and starting to shoot commercial video work. Our video work has always been influenced by our creative photo work, sometimes we test out an idea in stills before we put it into motion. 

What is it like to be at every show filming production and runway at Toronto Fashion Week? 
-- It's always a surprise to see how designers can transform the runway, and how models can play chameleon to the style and tone of each collection. There is a lot of pressure to make sure everything goes smoothly, especially when we are live editing the shows. The energy in the tent is always frenetic, and it keeps people upbeat. Our daily output is quite extensive, so we focus on making sure our workflow is in step. We don't have time to make mistakes so we have to work very efficiently. 

What other fashion weeks do you shoot? 
-- We have shot New York, Miami, Tokyo and Toronto. They are each so different! 

Describe a typical shoot. 
-- Every shoot starts with a concept or source of inspiration. Whether it's photo or video we want to create a sense of story as well as surprise, its so easy to make imagery that's repetitive so we try to incorporate new technology to give our work a little edge. For example when we did the music video for Evening Hymns- 'Family Tree', we knew we wanted the video to be about a family, but in a nostalgic or ghostly way so we shot all these scenes of a family in a house and then projected the scenes back into the same space at night time. It was sort of a low-tech projection mapping hack but it gave us the effect we were looking for. When we shot the Born Ruffians video 'Needle', it was a night out in New York but we shot it all in photos and then used software to merge the photos together creating a drunk-melty effect. 

What are the biggest challenges of working in Toronto? 
-- One of the challenges is also a benefit, which is that there is really a wealth of talent here. I think Toronto is also competitive because we're so close to New York, and I think sometimes there a sense that you need to leave Toronto to really make it in Toronto. 

What does fashion mean to you? 
-- Fashion is kind of one of the commercialized arts, so it's an industry that really values new ideas, or a new perspective on old ideas. I think that's what we really love, its an industry that's very picky and aesthetically discerning. Working in the photo and video side, clients aren't afraid to take some risks, they aren't looking to create what they've seen before. 

What artists from the past or present have influenced you the most? 
-- In photography David Bellemere has always been a favourite, his photos are sexy and powerful and the lighting is always amazing. Before he was super famous we actually went and stood outside his studio in Paris for two days trying to meet him. From the film world there are so many but one that stands out is Errol Morris, he created the interrotron- a two way teleprompter system that he used to get extremely candid interviews. He understood that there are micro-expressions that people make when they are communicating, and those are different from they way we look when we look in a camera. 

You can only have one lens for the rest of your life, what is it? 
-- That's a really hard question - probably a 50mm f/1.4 it was our first real lens and still our go-to if we need to put a lens on and go. 

What projects are you working on right now?
-- We're shooting some young Olympic hopefuls this weekend, that should be really fun. We're also working on a project about the impact of Uber with a professor at U of T, we've got episode six of akimbo's 'Artland' in the final editing stages among other things! 

What would be the most important thing you want potential clients to know about you? 
-- I think what we really focus on is the technical aspect of our work, we are fast and efficient but we also really want to push what we're doing creatively, we were really quick to start shooting with a drone, we're exploring the potential of Occulus Rift, we built an interrotron for a documentary we did a few years ago, we like testing out new small cameras and LIVE editing, basically we like projects that use technology in a new creative direction. 

What advice do you have for the next generation of artists? 
-- There's a strong aesthetic in our industry towards snapshot style shooting, low production and documentary style shooting. We really value this look ourselves but it's important to not let that style keep you from learning the technology of a more slick and heavily produced look. Part of great shooting is being in the right place or situation but the other part is knowing your gear.

#elitehotseat: THE COLLECTIONS

Describe a typical day at work. 
-- Waking up to a text/phone call. Coffee. Check emails. Meetings, meetings, meetings…fashion. 

What does a consultation with THE COLLECTIONS entail?
-- A consultation with us entails having a frank discussion about the Designer’s aesthetic and brand objectives.

How is THE COLLECTIONS instrumental in the growth an emerging designer? What do you offer? 
-- We offer designers, creative production and marketing services focused on activating their brands. One way we do this, is by producing fashion shows for designers who are professionally ready to present themselves and promote their fashion design vision to the wider Fashion Industry.

What makes the job exciting for you? 
-- Seeing great fashion before anyone else and meeting an eclectic mix of personalities.

What is the most rewarding part of your job? 
Making the client (designer) happy.

What do you do when you’re not working? 
-- Chill with BAE.

In the years you’ve been in the business, how has the Canadian fashion scene changed? 
-- We’re the change in the fashion scene… —but outside of us, I suppose there’s been a flux of major fashion retailers now vying for the Canadian dollar, making the market extremely competitive. Oh, and there are way more awards and prizes acknowledging Canadian designers…

What does Canada need in order to support small labels? 
-- First, not all small labels need to exist—sometimes those designers should be working for someone more established, who can mentor and pay them… but for the ones that insist, federally/provincially funded grants, bursaries and programs for Canadian/Canadian-based fashion designers and brand labels, would be helpful.

Why do you think major corporations are so intrigued with fashion right now? 
-- BR: In our consumer-driven society, fashion consumers particularly seem most likely to spend money on other items identified as “luxuries” so, I imagine corporations representing various “lifestyle” products see the revenue potential in marketing themselves to a demographic concerned with “the finer things”… I think, I don't know.

What is your favourite part about putting together a show? 
-- The final execution of the vision.

What is it like a week before fashion week for you?
-- Busy.

We know you’re very involved in the casting process for Toronto Fashion Week – what do you look for in a model?
-- BR: I look for a “good walk” from the models I’m casting. ‘Good’ to me is: effortless strides, perfect pace and posture (upright, chin forward, shoulders back, arms slightly swinging EQUALLY). Nonchalant confidence in the face—these things I need, in order to book a model. 

Who are some up and coming designers to look out for? 
-- Our designers: Jennifer Torosian, Daniel Christian Tang, Christopher Paunil, TRIARCHY, Ellie Mae, MARAM, Helder Diego, Sid Neigum, Beaufille, Matthew Gallagher… I can keep going…

What projects are you currently working on? 
-- Presenting 8 Designers at TORONTO FASHION WEEK MAR 14 – 18! Also, we are honoured to be a part of Cadillac-Fairview Eaton’s Centre #myTorontoStyle national campaign.

What can we expect from THE COLLECTIONS in the future? 
-- THE COLLECTIONS will continue to introduce the fashion industry to Canada’s most promising design talent. 

What is one piece of advice you would give to a young professional in the industry? 
Remember names! 

#elitehotseat: ROBBIE BEESER

How did you get discovered?

-- I was scouted at a Rihanna concert downtown when I was 17. 

How did it feel when you got scouted?

-- Getting scouted caught me a little off guard, but I figured I'd give it a try and see where it could take me. 

What do you think about when you walk the runway?

-- Even after three years, I get a little nervous before every show - normally imagining myself falling or messing up. 

What’s been the biggest highlight of your modelling career so far?

-- The biggest highlight of my career would probably be walking for Versace and getting to experience that top brand in action. 

What do you like the most about your job?

-- My favourite part about modelling would have to be the opportunity to travel and see the world.

As a kid what did you want to be when you grew up?

-- Growing up I’d always dream of being a pro hockey player. 

What do you like to do when you’re not modelling or off-duty?

-- When I'm not working I often stay at my girlfriends apartment, just relaxing maybe a few drinks. 

What’s the last song that got stuck in your head?

-- The last song that got stuck in my head would have to be Novacane by Frank Ocean. 

If you could hang out with any three people who would you choose?

-- If I could hang out with any three people I would have to choose Carey Prive, P.K. Subban and Brendan Gallegher, being the big hand fan I am. 

What’s one subject you could talk about for at least 5 minutes?

-- I could talk about hockey for hours.

What’s something about yourself that might surprise people?

-- It might surprise most people that hockey was actually my first word as a baby. 

What do you see yourself doing after your modelling career?

-- After modelling I plan on going to university in Toronto, then moving to Honduras to run my families beach bar.

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